Thursday, September 5, 2013

news from Triana

September 5th

We are approaching a two full weeks in this country! It feels like longer, and I’m not sure what that’s supposed to mean because sometimes people say “wow it feels like nothing” and that’s good, or “wow, feels like forever” and that can be good too. Regardless, I’m happy to be here today. Mary Alice is the TCU contact in Sevilla, and she led us through our orientation over the weekend. She is a wonderful, insightful, and kind American-turned-Sevillan. Because our group is so small (the three of us), orientation was very informal and fun. We had our “meetings” over coffee or meals and strolled around the city to learn the most important routes and landmarks. What felt so big and confusing over the weekend already feels smaller and familiar. We even have a favorite ice cream place already (so far), but there are literally at least two on every street so we will see. I do have to say that I saw horchata on a menu at one of the ice cream place and asked about it/tried it and it is not the horchata I know I love at all. It is made from the milk of some variety of tuber and is sold only in a couple of regions of the country. Win some, lose some. Add it to the list of food items we will miss this semester, which so far includes Hershey’s dark chocolate and chick-fil-e, soon to include popcorn unless I can find some this weekend. Speaking of, us three amigos are going to Cadiz this weekend, which is a city a couple hours south on the coast. Beach time is coming and I’m pretty dang excited.

Back to orientation, it was very helpful and full of cultural heads-ups. For example, it’s very strange and generally impolite to stretch or yawn in public here and we are trying to be conscientious about that. Resources and meals are both taken very seriously. No light should be on unless you are actually in the room at the given moment, and if there is still daylight, there is no need for lights. Showers are short, and we turn off wifi at night. When you think about it, it really doesn’t make sense to treat it any differently; we’re just avoiding wastefulness. There is also no air conditioning or heating in our house, which means that so far we’ve kind of been in a constant state of sweating. It also means that during the hottest part of the day, we siesta so as to move as little as possible. Siesta is right after lunch, which is the biggest meal of the day at about 2:30. Most stores close up and there are few people in the streets. We sleep or read or some other calm activity. It’s as wonderful as it sounds and is kind of necessary once you realize what nightlife is like. A couple days, we slept for nearly three hours, and later Elisa told us that was barbaric. So apparently you’re not supposed to sleep the whole time. After siesta, it is starting to be nice outside again and we leave to do whatever around the city (we don’t really have homework yet). Dinner is at 10 and is a lighter meal, than we chat or whatever before bed. This week we have been in intensive Spanish classes four hours a day at a language institute as a warm up basically for university classes. It has been pretty interesting because our class has one retired and four young americans, two guys from Ireland, a German girl, and two lovely older people from France. This week overall has been quite relaxed and great for getting accustomed to things. My stomach is settling into our food schedule a little better finally. Breakfast is coffee and toast pretty much exclusively around 8:30 so our breakfast buffet at the hotel last weekend was a final supper for eggs, fruit, juice, yogurt and such. Our family is fantastic. Ashlyn and I live in our own apartment, one floor up from our family, in a neighborhood called Triana. Gifton is in a house with his host mom (señora) several blocks away in Los Remedios. We are both very close to the river, and we cross it every morning during sunrise to get to the language institute. Our señora, Elisa, is kind and pretty reserved. She cooks and eats lunch and dinner with us and we sit afterward for sobremesa, which is the “after-dinner chat”. We’re all getting to know each other little by little and it’s obviously great Spanish practice.

Elisa is married to Monolo, who is constantly smiling and so adorable. And I feel like I can call him adorable because he is shorter than me. They have a son Paco who comes over a lot and is very friendly and helpful. We have yet to meet their daughter Cristina. It’s weird to insert yourself into a family like this, but everyone puts themselves out there and the bonding just happens. Overall things are quite wonderful here, but I can tell my body is searching for routine, which I think will come when classes start at university. It is fun and peculiar to watch life continue at TCU and at home (7 hours behind), just like any other semester. I’m glad to see they can carry on without us ;) There have been several discussions about the nature of our experience here. When people study in Europe, they tend to travel A LOT. Up to 12-14 countries can be visited in the course of a semester, maybe more. Everything can turn into a weekend trip because we don’t have class on Friday. But as we were walking around Seville this week, we realized how much we are enchanted by this place and want to spend time having a presence here and getting to know friends and places. So we’ve worked toward finding a balance between enjoying the proximity to so many great tourist destinations and our desire to live like a Sevillano, who obviously would not be taking international vacations every weekend. We are only leaving Spain once in September, and are still planning out trips in Nov-Dec. The other big thing for me is that traveling outside Spain helps zero with our fluency in Spanish and my biggest regret would be ending this semester without having learned and improved as much as possible with the language. Therefore, I think our schedule may be a little atypical, but I’m very excited about it. Seville is an amazing city rich with things to do and see and people to meet! I would hate to miss that. Luckily, we all feel similarly about that. On the whole, the three of us have so much fun together. They are both wonderful people and we laugh a lot. Ashlyn is incredibly nice and open-minded, and Gifton is hilarious and genuine. I feel like we really lucked out to be here together and can’t believe we didn't find each other at TCU before this.
Today we are meeting up with our first Spanish friends for churros and tomorrow we’re off to Cadiz! I also wanted to note the food we’ve tried for anyone who is curious, but I figured I would group it all together in case others found it boring. Everything our mom has cooked has been so tasty, and I’m already excited to have some of it again. For example. . .
  • Lentil soup. I know, right? But it’s so so good. With bread, there is always bread.
  • Gazpacho: a cold, tomato based soup with oil, vinegar, salt, and diced onions, cucumber, pepper, and egg. Crunchy and refreshing!
  • Tortillas: basically an omelette, can be plain (francesa), with vegetables (española), or others
  • Albóndigas: meatballs with some unknown sauce on them that I wish was on every meat ever
  • Postre is the dessert, and for postre we (and most families) have fruit, which is awesome, because we have pleeenty of ice cream in the afternoons. They have all been juicy and delicious but besides pears, I haven’t tried them before. Elisa says nature is wise and gives us what we need, which is why we get juicy fruits in the summer and oranges with vitamin C in winter, when people get sick.

The rest has been pretty familiar, like pasta or mashed potatoes. One night we came in for dinner and it was literally a giant pile of peas with hard-boiled egg spread on top. They put eggs in a lot of things.

I think that sums up this week. Assuming you enjoy humanity, which I do, I would say being in a different country is pretty incredible, as far as incredible things go. We are trying to blend in but I’m not sure if it’s working yet. We’ll keep trying and I’ll let you know.

Have a great week, and thanks for stopping by!
Love,
Jenna


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